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E13 - Draping 101 :: Draping Front/Back Bodice Part 1 of 2 from Pandemica Apparel on Vimeo. |
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MATERIALS & TOOLS: • Clear Ruler • L-Ruler • 1 yard Muslin Fabric • Pencil • Pins • Scissors • Tape measure 
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How to drape the front & back bodice: First Block fabric (see video). Preparing Front Bodice Fabric: • On your muslin draw the grain line 1" from salvage edge. • Fold musline in half & draw a straight line 90 degree from grain line (this will be your Bust Level Line (BLL). • Measure the Center Front (CF) to Apex, Apex to Side Seam (SS) & add 1/8 inch. Marke these points on your musline. • Divide the distance from Apex to SS in half & Marking & draw a straight line down (this will be the Center of the Princess Panel (CPP) [this line must be parellel to CF]). Preparing Back Bodice Fabric: • On your muslin draw the grain line 1" from salvage edge. • Measure 3" down (this will be your neckline crossmark) • Measure 4 1/4 inch from the 3" mark (this will be your Should Blade Level (SBL). Then draw a 90 degree line straight across. • Measure the SBL on your dress form & Mark musline (you can also add the 1/4 inch ease at this point if you would like). Attaching the Front Bodice to your Dress Form: • Ankor the Apex from fabric to Dress Form. • Pin CF & BLL at bust tape. • Using an Ankor Point pin CF/Neck, CF/Waist, & BLL/SS (BLL must be parellel to the floor, this is a MUST). • Then place a pin at CPP/BLL & CPP/waist (this must be 100% vertical, if your BLL is not parellel to the floor this will be off. The placement of CPP will determain the width of your dart and your SS.) • Waist Dart: gently smooth the fabric away from CF & mark at Waist/Princess Seam, now smooth the fabric towards CF & mark. Pin dart closed with excess of dart push towards CF. • Slash upto waistline if needed. • Pin Waist/SS & mark. • With the side of a pencil mark the side seam (see video). Smooth out fabric at SS pin & pin SS/Armhole. • Smooth fabric up & over armhole. With the side of a pencil find the plate screw draw a straight line across, mark the end of the armplate & draw a 1/2 inch mark. And pinch this point closed with a pin. • Cut fabric at neck: leave about 1 inch above neckline at CF and cut 1 inch in & up. Then cut upto the neck line until you get the the Neck/Shoulder. Pin & Mark. • Shoulder Dart: Smooth fabric away from Center & mark. Then smooth fabric over the shoulder & mark. Pin the shoulder dart closed with excess pushed towards CF. • Mark the Shoulder Ridge (SR) Checklist: Make sure the following points are marked. • CF/Neck, CF/Waist • Waist, Waist Dart, Waist/SS • SS, SS/Armhole • Neck/Shoulder, Shoulder Dart, Shoulder Ridge Attaching the Back Bodice to your Dress Form: • Attach the fabric with an ankor point at Center Back (CB)/Neck. • Pin Shoulder Blade Level (SBL) & Pin the crossmark ease at SBL. Distributing the excess ease along SBL. • Waist Dart: Smooth out fabric at Waist/Princess Seam, pin & mark then measure out 1 1/4 inch. Pin dart closed with excess fabric pushed toward CB. • Slash fabric upto waistband, if needed. • Smooth fabric and pin Waist/SS and up SS to Armhole. With the side of a pencil mark the SS. • Cut fabric at neck: leave about 1 inch above neckline at CB and cut 1 inch in & up. Then cut upto the neck line until you get the the Neck/Shoulder. Pin & Mark. • Shoulder Dart: Smooth fabric over shoulder mark the Princess Seam at Shoulder the measure 1/2 inch. Pin dart closed. • Mark the Shoulder Ridge (SR) Checklist: Make sure the following points are marked. • CB/Neck, CB/Waist • Waist, Waist Dart, Waist/SS • SS, SS/Armhole • Neck/Shoulder, Shoulder Dart, Shoulder Ridge |
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