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Zippers - E02 from Pandemica Apparel on Vimeo. |
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For the Exposed & Railroad/Centered Zipper: • 4 strips of fabric measuring 4"x(the length of the zipper)" • 2 zipper Invisible Zipper: • 2 strips of fabric measuring 4"x12 • 1 invisible zipper 9" |
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This video will explain the Zipper Anatomy, Zipper Feet & will show you how to sew 3 different kinds of Zipper Applications: • Exposed Zipper1 • Railroad or Centered Zipper • Invisible Zipper • Exposed Zipper1: are generally used in craft project for bags, but can also be used on a garment such as a jacket or dress if you want the zipper to be visible. First fold 1/2 inch under and iron, repeat on send piece of fabric. Then place zipper right sides to wrong sides of fabric, pin in place. Now top stich the fabric 1/4 from zipper teeth. Repeat on other side. • Railroad or Centered Zipper: is used in center-back seams at the neckline or waistline. The stiching is visible on both sides of the zipper and is an equal distance from the center. Baste stitch the seamline 1/2 inch from edge. Press the seams open. Place the zipper right sides to wrong sides of fabric. Pin in place. Remove some of the basting stitches and move the slider down. Then top stitch 3/8 inch away from zipper teeth. When you get to the end of the zipper tape before the metal stoper stitch across then up along the other side. Remove the basting stitch. • Invisible Zipper: is used to retain the look of a plain seam. For example on an evening gown, where the zipper stitching would poil the line of the garment. Open the invisible zipper and place it on the left garment piece, right side of fabric to right side of zipper (the wrong side of the zipper should be facing up). The zipper teeth should be placed along the stitchline and the zipper tape along the seam allowwance; baste or pin in place. Place the lefthand groove of the zipper foot over the coils of the zipper. Roll the coil away from the zipper tape while you sew until the foot touches the pull tab. Close the zipper and place both the right and left garment pieces on top of each other, matching the correct sides and zipper stitchlines; baste or pin in place. Now open the zipper and position the righthand groove of the zipper foot over the coils of the zipper. Roll the coil away from the zipper tape while you sew until the foot touches the pull tab. Remove invisble zipper foot and replace it with a conventional zipper foot. Close the zipper and place the end of the zipper out and way from the seam area. Stitch the garment seam closed along the seamline, from the bottom sitching of the zipper to the remainder of the garment seam. Stitch the ends of the zipper tapes to the seam allowances.
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